Tips: Hanging Artwork, Part II
Posted on | November 25, 2009 | 6 Comments
In Part I, we discussed the importance of hanging your artwork at eye level. This is a great rule of thumb in general, but now I get to tell you that it really does vary. Eye level is relative to where you are and what you’re doing. When you’re sitting at a table, for instance, your eye level is much lower than 57 – 60 inches. And as you go up a staircase, your eye level changes with every step you take.
However, furniture height usually takes precedence over eye level when hanging art. A rule of thumb is 8 to 12 inches above a sofa, table, chest, sideboard, etc. Adjust this distance if the surface below holds lamps, plants, or books, or if you run the risk of bumping your head. You’ll want to place the art low enough that it relates to the furniture, but not so low that it is hidden by your accessories. The trick here is to let objects only catch an edge or corner of the frame.
Guidelines on Picture Hanging:
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A picture, or grouping, should be approached as part of a composition which includes the wall where it is to be hung and the furniture and the accessories around it. Ceiling height, the heights of doors and windows, and the shape of the available wall space should all be used as guidelines in creating an over-all effect.
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A picture grouping looks best when it is related to a piece of furniture, rather than standing alone. A table, chair, cabinet or desk against the wall forms an “anchor” for the pictures.
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Select smaller or taller pictures for narrow walls.
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Select larger pieces or a larger grouping of different-size pieces for larger expanses of wall space. If you had a fairly large wall, the last thing you should is hang an 8 x 10 frame and call it a day.
Balancing Your Arrangement + Establishing a Sense of Order:
Our eyes search for order everywhere we look. When we look at a tree, we immediately pick out the broken limb because it’s out of order. This is true when we look at an arrangement on a wall, too, so give your grouping order.
It also helps to reinforce a sense of order by defining vertical or horizontal lines. Keep in mind that strong horizontals can make a room feel wider, while vertical lines can give a space with a low ceiling an illusion of height.
Applying the Principles of Design:
Emphasis is created when one large picture is featured, or a grouping is seen as one unit. I really love the look of varying sizes and shapes of pictures, but these should be mixed properly to create an effective rhythm within the arrangement.
Continuity is essential in a grouping. Many say that the outside perimeter of the pictures should follow the lines of the area being filled; If hung over a piece of furniture or cabinetry, the lines should also relate to the unit below. I think that’s perfectly rational thinking, but that doesn’t mean your outside perimeter must line up perfectly. Some may disagree. In the example below, we compare a blank arrangement that possesses continuity and one that doesn’t.
The one that possesses continuity does have an outside perimeter that lines up and creates and overall shape (a square). Here’s an example of continuity and creating a circle with your art (easily done with decorative plates):
The arrangement that lacks continuity has pictures that are hung up without rhyme or reason. It’s perfectly okay for your arrangement to not have an orderly outside perimeter, but you must establish a sense of order in another fashion. This picture is a good example:
Balance within a grouping is important. Visually heavier pictures or ornate frames work well when interspersed with lighter pictures using simpler frames. Without this precaution, the composition will seem divided, with no unity. Unity will be maintained if larger pictures are placed at either side of the grouping with smaller ones within.
Common Mistakes + How to Avoid Them:
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Mistake: Hanging groupings that are too small or too large for the furniture under them. Solution: Plan your arrangement so that is covers at least two-thirds of the wall space over a piece of furniture. For instance, if your sofa is 6 feet wide, your grouping should be centered and cover 4 feet of wall space. This same proportion works over beds, sideboards, pianos, etc.
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Mistake: Art moves on the wall Solution: Use two nails to hang the piece
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Mistake: A grouping on every wall. Solution: This is art overload and will make your room feel too busy.
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Mistake: Art that is too high. Solution: When in doubt, remember that lower is almost always better.
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Mistake: Too much space between pictures. Solution: Maintain a spacing of 2 – 6 inches between frames. Or leave no space at all, like the photo below:
Choosing Hangers and Hooks:
Prints and photographs can hang from a metal hook attached to a frame or from wire looped through eye screws secured to a frame. Large, heavy paintings need wall anchors, and decorative plates require balanced wire hangers.
Don’t be afraid to get creative with hanging your artwork. Follow these guidelines for the basic styles, but don’t be afraid to add your own creative touch when it comes to decorating your walls with artwork. This concludes the Decor Tips for 2009. I will continue the series in 2010, after the hustle and bustle of the holiday season has passed!
[Sources + Images: Personal college notes, 28 Tips for Hanging Art, Better Homes & Gardens, Atlanta Homes & Lifestyles, Domino, Blueprint, Belle Maison, Apartment Therapy, Lili Diallo, Skona Hem]
[Check Out: Step-by-Step Guide to Hanging Artwork, Art Picture Framing Tips]
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6 Responses to “Tips: Hanging Artwork, Part II”
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November 25th, 2009 @ 12:02 pm
My goodness, you have been busy Ms. Kristen. I’m saving this post-great visual guide for everyone. Kristen, you need to write a book.
highglossblue.blogspot.com´s last blog ..Florence Knoll Coffee Table
November 25th, 2009 @ 4:57 pm
great ideas and tips
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November 25th, 2009 @ 6:21 pm
Once again you have provided me with some much needed advice! I love these posts
November 28th, 2009 @ 3:02 pm
I really enjoyed this series! It inspired me to do something with all the art I have stored in boxes in my attic. I’ve found that using adhesive putty or the like on the back of the picture frame keeps it straight without having to use two nails. The putty comes right off when you want to move the picture and leaves no additional marks on the wall.
December 9th, 2009 @ 7:24 pm
Hello Kristin – just discovered your blog and I am a HUGE fan, you have an amazing perspective. As a fellow interior designer in Los Angeles, I am finding myself continually referencing your blog. Keep it up! Check out my blog if you get a chance. http://futurespaceinteriors.blogspot.com/
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January 5th, 2010 @ 10:44 am
What an amazing post! Great, great, great!!!!
Kristie Barnett´s last blog ..Feathering Your Nest: Edit and Declutter Your Kitchen